Have you ever wondered where cowboy hats came from? Or why they are shaped the way they are? This is a series about American western wear where I will be covering the history of American blue jeans, cowboy hats, cowboy boots and bandanas. Let’s take a look at the true American experience of the Wild West, cowboys, a man named John Batterson Stetson, and a hat called “boss of the plains.”
The cowboy hat is the ultimate symbol of the American cowboy. The western style and cowboy culture makes this piece of western wear a staple of the American west. In the 1800s the Wild West was booming. Men were clamoring for a chance to claim their own piece of land, find gold, and run a cattle ranch. These men were not afraid of hard work. In many southwestern states such as New Mexico, Arizona, and California, the sun was hot.
Who is John B. Stetson
At first cowboy hats did not look like the hats we picture today. A man named John B. Stetson had everything to do with the evolution, design and fashion of the American cowboy hat here in the United States.
He was a son of a hatter in New Jersey. After finding out he had tuberculosis, John wanted to make the most of his life and head west. After recovering from tuberculosis, he returned home and continued working with his father. He kept thinking about the variety of hats he saw back west such as top hats, coonskin caps and sailor hats. John did not see a hat that would keep the sun off the of neck while keeping the head warm at night, so he created a new hat.
The Boss of the Plains
Most of the hats of the west were something called derby hats or bowler hats. There is a famous photo of Jesse James that shows him sporting the small derby hat. These hats were small and rounded on top with short brims. They were not practical and did not offer much protection or shade.
In 1865, Stetson made a felt hat that had a larger brim so it would protect the men from the harsh sun and stay on their heads in windy conditions. He called this iconic hat, “the boss of the plains.”
While traveling back west he met a cowboy who offered him $5 for his original design. $5 was a generous sum back in that day. John soon began making more cowboy hats out of beaver felt so the hat would be waterproof and the cowboy could have his horse drink from it. Having the hat waterproofed would also protect the cowboy from the outdoor weather conditions. Soon, the Stetson name was well known around the west for making the best cowboy hat.
Where did the term 10-gallon hat come from?
Have you heard of the term “10-gallon hat?” The word is said to have come from the Mexican cowboys. The Mexican cowboys wore hats known as the Mexican vaqueros’ sombrero or Spanish poblano before the 1800s. The Spanish word, “tan galas” means, “fine” in English. It is said that’s where we get the term ten-gallon hat from.
Stetson put out an ad that showed a cowboy holding his hat and his horse drinking out of it. The term “ten gallon” comes from how much liquid could be carried inside the hat. The term has been romanticized overtime, since obviously a traditional cowboy hat can’t hold 10 gallons of water.
If we look back further into history, even as far back as the 13th century, the Mongolian horse riders were known to have worn a sombrero type of hat. It had a wide brim and a high crown. This would technically be the first cowboy hat.
Why are some cowboy hats straw while other’s are felt or wool?
The rule of thumb is that straw cowboy hats are made for the summer and felt or wool cowboy hats are made for the winter. This is not always the case, but the straw cowboy hat is designed to keep the hot summer sun off the cowboys neck along with being breathable. The felt or wool hat is designed to keep the cowboy’s head warm in the winter or nighttime.
Names of the different cowboy hat designs
The classic cowboy hat has evolved over time as different styles and quality material have been discovered. There are low-crowned caps, wide-brimmed hats, straw hats, round flat brim hats, and the list goes on. Traditional cowboy hats are known by different names and are worn by ranchers, cowboys, and bull riders.
Traditional names of hat creases
Some of the proper names for the different designs of cowboy hat creases are:
The cattleman’s crease (three top crown crease, paired with a curved brim).
The boss of the plains (round on top).
The pinch front (style you see most often).
The Dakota (pinched at four corners making a square shape, it is mostly worn by bull riders).
Traditional names of hat brims
Some of the proper names for the different designs of the cowboy brims are:
The flat (this hat has a flat brim).
The low rodeo (this hat has a low, curved brim).
The tracker brim (this hat has a slight curve to one side of the brim).
Shop Cowboy hats
When we think of cowboy hats today, we think of the iconic Stetson hat. The history of the cowboy hat is intriguing. Thought and intention goes into the design of today’s cowboy hat as much as it did back in the turn of the century. Cowboy hats are still a staple in American western wear along with American fashion.
Shop here for an iconic style cowboy hat.
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If you like this blogpost check out my post The American Tale of the History of Blue Jeans.
Chris says
That’s really interesting, thank you for sharing that story! I’ve never thought about where the cowboy hat originated from, but that makes so much sense.
Megan says
I love that there are so many variations in the western style. Who knew the hats could differ so much! Very interesting!
Nikki says
I love a man in a cowboy hat! Learned so much from your article, thanks!